What do The Functions of Fabrics and Accessories Impact on The Garment Processing?
Suitable fabrics and accessories need producing process to becoming the clothes for people to wear. In the same way, the producing process also matters to the features of fabrics and accessories.
1. Pattern Construction
Except styling, the thickness, softness, draping and degree of tightness, tensile property, slipslip or other functions all matter to how many fabrics put when patterning. The size of seam allowance also matters to the thickness and degree of tightness or other factors.
2. Tailoring
The shrinkage rate of fabrics and accessories must be taken considered when tailoring. Generally the fabrics which have good hygroscopicity, comfortableness and breathability will shrink, such as cotton, fibre, silk, wool and regenerated fibre. The shrinkage rate also relate to the fabric structure. Shrinkage rate of loose structure fabric will be larger, on the contrary, compact structure shrinkage will be small.
Another factor we must consider when tailoring is the direction of cut-parts where should to put on the fabrics (Faserrichtung). Straight faserrichtung? Across faserrichtung? Or twill faserrichtung? Because there are different stretchability, fastness, draping and other special nature for the warp and weft of fabrics and accessories, so when tailoring it must be consistent with the garment performance, required garment design and comfortable of garment. Or the garment will not meet the requirement.
3. Sewing
The choice of sewing thread, size of stitch, weight of presser foot all matters to fabric and accessories of garment when sewing. The thickness, smooth or coarse of surface, degree of tightness, tensile property all will impact on the sewing technology. Besides color and thickness, the shrinkage rate also need to be considered when choosing sewing thread.
Usually easing is to adjust partial modelling when sewing. How much easing also relate to the texture and structure of fabrics. For example, short fiber ease more than filament fabric, loose structure fabrics ease more than compact structure, thick fabric ease more than thin fabric and so on.
4. Ironing
Different fabrics and accessories of garment have different ironing temperature, time and way. Such as the ironing temperature of polypropylene fiber is pretty low, it will be shrank, soften and fused when beyond 100℃. Tussah silk fabrics should use dry ironing instead of hydraulic ironing, or there will be some water stain left. Compact structure and dark color fabrics can not iron too much time, or aurora will appear. Fabrics with fluff on surface not suitable to hard pressing, or the fluff will be beaten down and influence the garment appearance. Thin fabrics better iron with low temperature in long time; While thick fabrics need high temperature to meet good effect.
Hot seam can keep long time after synthetic fibre ironing, and water won’t touch that. Hot seam will disappear after the natural fibre fabrics washing, it need to iron again.
5. The relation between garment making and fabrics&accessories
Garment making must according to the nature and feature of fabrics and accessories. To understand different features of fabrics and accessories, we must adopt scientific and reasonable technology so as to make good quality garment which meet design requirement.
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